As a way of maintaining our track it needs initially to be relatively clean, but clean track doesn't necessarily stay clean, likewise locomotive wheels and wheels of our rolling-stock should also be clean. Keeping track and wheels clean is time consuming and apparently for some an endless task, which ultimately has a bearing on running performance.

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Clean track and wheels is not what we are trying to achieve, what's required is maintaining good electrical conductivity between wheels and track and that's what is going to enhance performance. It is also dirty wheels and oxidation of the rail head that makes for poor performance. In order to achieve our goal, we need to replace all plastic wheels with turned steel one's and sell on those locomotives that still rely on traction tyres. Wheels are responsible for laying down dirt on our track, and this is especially so if you’re running a digitally controlled system.

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Traditional abrasive track rubbers such as those manufactured by Peco and similar for example are not helpful in cleaning track and ideally should not be used, they score the rail head, where microscopic particles of dirt can then build up, effectively damaging the track and likewise when using a wire wheel cleaning device. Having said that the latest rubbers supplied by DCC Concepts and Gaugemaster are made from aluminium oxide which are softer, less abrasive and feel more rubberised when handled and maybe kinder to our rail head although leaves more debris to hoover up, improved conductivity is short lived.

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Solvents such as WD40 may clean the track but leaves a residue that will gum up mechanisms. Some prefer methylated spirits or even vinegar which have been known to be effective cleaners and that's alright, if you don’t mind your layout smelling like a fish and chip shop. Track Majic is a more up to date solvent and is widely used, plus it gives a certain amount of protection to the rail head for a period of time, but demands frequent re-application to achieve improved conductivity, one thing to be aware of, it may be susceptible to sub-zero temperatures if your layout is situated in the loft, garage, shed or garden.

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IPA (Isopropyl alcohol-70%) should not be used, it is basic anti-bacterial hand wash and it actively promotes oxidation, it contains 70% alcohol, 29% water and1% additive to prevent folk from drinking it and actively absorbs water when exposed to oxygen. Do we really want to apply water to our track? Probably not.

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On the other hand IPA (Isopropyl alcohol - 99% ) still has the additive to prevent ingestion but is a different animal altogether and has proved to be a very effective cleaner of both rail head and wheels, which makes it the cleaner of choice, but still lacks what we are all looking for and that is lasting improvement in conductivity.

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In order to create better performance of our trains we must improve the electrical conductivity between locomotive wheels, rolling-stock wheels and track and reduce the effects of oxidation on metal parts, ie wheels and rail head. There are two products on the market that have been around for some years that will eventually see a relaxation to the endless wheel and track cleaning chore, one of which I have used for a while with good effect, which in time will render wheel cleaning a thing of the past. Both products clean and lubricate the rail head which in turn is picked up on locomotive wheels and that of rolling-stock, a thin film of conductive lubricant encases both wheels and railhead which cannot be easily removed, keeping trains running and improving performance.

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There are three items I know of which fit the bill.

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• Inox EMX3 - 125 which is a spray container of 125 mls (cost - £10.99)

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• Inox MX3 - FG which is a lubricant injector needle of 60mls (cost - £7.50). Only a small mount is necessary so one purchase may last a lifetime, used to good effect in slot car racing. ( I use this product and get it from" PSR slot racing " in Lancashire). Made in Australia.

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• CRC2 - 26 anti-corrosion protector comes a 500ml container, costs £12.56 from Amazon, ensure you get the description right, as CRC make several similar products. Made in the USA.

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Have a look at these products if you are interested, but to use one of these products you may need to abandon previous practices. As modellers we make our own choices, what works for one may not be so for another and in the end its all about what works for you.

 

Good luck!

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Chris Toyer.

May 2024